Apprentice

Collaboration with John Lobb

2008

Shoes

Description

Apprentice is a project that brought design into direct dialogue with the world of bespoke shoemaking. Supported by Arts Council England, it grew from Doshi Levien’s desire to work side-by-side with London makers – to learn from their processes and discover new ground together. Wanting to create something close to the making traditions of London, and to find a medium where their individual skills could meet naturally, the studio arrived at the idea of shoes: a field shaped by pattern cutting, sculptural form, and the sensual qualities of leather.

This search led them to John Lobb in St James’s, makers of hand-crafted shoes and boots whose bespoke tradition stretches back generations. Entering the workshop revealed a universe of highly skilled specialists – the fitter, the last-maker, the pattern cutter, the clicker and the maker – with each gesture rooted in centuries of accumulated skill. Rather than reinventing the shoe, Doshi Levien worked with these methods, reinterpreting what already existed and emphasising the sculptural logic of the craft. Apprentice became an exchange of expertise: a dialogue between design curiosity and deep artisanal knowledge.

Credits
Photos: John Ross
 Poster design: Pony Limited
Apprentice
SKETCHES, MATERIAL STUDIES AND FINISHED SHOES
(Fig 1)

SKETCHES, MATERIAL STUDIES AND FINISHED SHOES

The image captures the dialogue between design and craftsmanship, where hand-drawn concepts and precise shoemaking techniques come together to create bespoke works of exceptional detail and form.
RETHINKING THE TRADITIONAL SHOE
(Fig 2)

RETHINKING THE TRADITIONAL SHOE

The designs explore asymmetry, the fluidity of leather, and ways of wrapping the foot that merge components usually treated separately.
THE MAKER REFINES THE SHOE
(Fig 3)

THE MAKER REFINES THE SHOE

The artistry of handcrafting a stacked leather heel.
PERFECT SHOE
(Fig 4)

PERFECT SHOE

Developed with last maker Jonathan Lobb, this crocodile skin pair reflects the meticulous refinement of proportion and line that Doshi Levien pursues – the studio’s vision of a perfectly balanced shoe.
CONTOURS OF THE FOOT ACCENTUATED
(Fig 5)

CONTOURS OF THE FOOT ACCENTUATED

The sinuous form of the sculpted last was carried into the final shoe, with each cut of leather describing the anatomy of the foot.
THE HANDS OF DESIGNER AND MAKER
THE HANDS OF DESIGNER AND MAKER
(Fig 6)

THE HANDS OF DESIGNER AND MAKER

The project began with the desire to work locally in London and to bring design into direct conversation with making.
PATTERN CUTTING
(Fig 8)

PATTERN CUTTING

Doshi Levien provides a tape-covered last as a design drawing for the pattern cutter to translate.
POSTER CELEBRATING THE LAUNCH OF APPRENTICE
(Fig 9)

POSTER CELEBRATING THE LAUNCH OF APPRENTICE

Pony Limited designed a double-sided poster featuring a playful composition of the shoe components. The names of makers and their roles in the process are laid out above.